Did a friend forward this to you? Sign up here. Easy comfortPast restaurant meals drift in and out of my subconscious: The cheese plate at Contra in New York, where thick wisps of sheep's milk cheddar topped sweet and salty fruits and pickles, a cirrus cloud of cheese. A wedge of chocolate caramel cake, so dense it turns the inside of your mouth black, at Republique in Los Angeles, served with a shot glass of ice-cold milk. The khao man gai at Nong's in Portland, Ore., with its funky, crave-worthy sauce and rice, fragrant with ginger and spice. This recipe, for an easy lemony pasta, reminds me of the pappardelle al limone that's sometimes on the menu at i Sodi in New York's West Village. It's creamy but not heavy, incredibly smooth, though the sauce clings to each noodle like a savory safety blanket. I don't know how chef Rita Sodi does it, but I do like to try to re-create it at home whenever I get the chance. This sauce, from recipe developer Ali Slagle, gets pretty close. Here, I'll walk you through it: Melt the butter in a Dutch oven or large pot. Add the lemon zest and let it just warm up, just until the citrusy scent becomes slightly heady, then shut off the heat. Boil your pasta — any shape works for this, but I like long strands, which seem to curl around the sauce on the plate. Just before the pasta is done, scoop out a cup and a half of the starchy pasta water and set it aside. Drain the pasta. Add the reserved pasta water to the lemon butter, and turn the heat back on, low. Stir, stir, stir! Here's what's happening: You're getting the starches in the pasta water to combine with the butter fat. At first, it will look all separated and odd, because water and fat don't like each other. But those starches are key; eventually, the liquid will emulsify into a creamy sauce. Then, add the grated Parmesan, a handful or so at a time. Keep the heat low, and stir until it comes together, adding more pasta water if necessary, and seasoning with salt and pepper. (A splash of cream isn't necessary, but it wouldn't hurt, either!) Once your sauce comes together, after a few minutes of vigorous stirring, add the cooked pasta. Let the sauce coat the noodles, and then serve right away, while everything is hot, with extra cheese and black pepper on the side. | Today's recipe | Photos by Tom McCorkle for The Washington Post; food styling by Lisa Cherkasky for The Washington Post | Lemon-Butter PastaI've never done this with zucchini noodles (zoodles), but I've heard it works. Could you add sauteed mushrooms or frizzled onions or grated garlic or leftover chunks of chicken or peas from the freezer? Why not?! No lemon in the house? Add extra pepper, or use a dash of dried herbs instead. The cheese really helps make the dish, so I wouldn't skip it, but you could use other hard cheeses in place of the Parmesan. But as written, with just six ingredients, this dish is a saucy and simple way to dinner. For easy printing and scaling, view this recipe in our Recipe Finder. Servings: 4 to 6 Active time: 25 mins Total time: 45 mins Ingredients - 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter
- Finely grated zest from 2 large lemons (2 tablespoons)
- Kosher salt
- 1 pound fettuccine, or another pasta
- 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for optional garnish
- Freshly ground black pepper
Steps1. In a Dutch oven or skillet large enough to hold all the pasta, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the lemon zest and swirl to mix. Remove from heat. 2. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, then add the pasta and cook until al dente, about 10 minutes. Drain the pasta, reserving 1 1/2 cups of the pasta water. 3. Return the butter to medium heat, then whisk in the reserved pasta water until combined, about 2 minutes. Add the Parmesan in a couple of handfuls, whisking until emulsified, 3 to 4 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the pasta to the sauce; toss and stir until the noodles are glossed with sauce, 3 to 5 minutes. 4. Serve with more black pepper and Parmesan. From recipe developer Ali Slagle. Tested by Ann Maloney. Nutrition information per serving (based on 6): Calories: 291; Total Fat: 21.5 g; Saturated Fat: 14 g; Cholesterol: 71 mg; Sodium: 291 mg; Carbohydrates: 15 g; Dietary Fiber: 1 g; Sugars: 1 g; Protein: 9 g. | Dessert | π§ "Nature Boy" by Nat King Cole. πΊ "Les grandes fantΓ΄mes" by Louise Narboni and Yoann Bourgeois. π "What will make people care about police shootings of Latinos?" by Gustavo Arellano in the Los Angeles Times. π "Not the return to inside dining I was expecting." π£ If you liked this newsletter, please forward it to a friend! |
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