Magnificent News: Eat Voraciously: It's cookout season

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Here's what's for dinner tonight.

By G. Daniela Galarza

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Plantains on the brain

Good day, all. It's Juneteenth in the United States, a federal holiday as of 2021, and one that The Washington Post honors by giving us the day off. Some might be having or hosting a cookout or barbecue, others might be going to a local event. I'm using this as an opportunity to visit the National Archives — which I've never been to — to see the Emancipation Proclamation and General Order No. 3.

I'd also like to cook something on the grill. Something like these plantain tacos spiked with ancho chile and lime juice, with cabbage, salsa and toasted pumpkin seeds on top.

"Starchy-sweet plantains make a fantastic filling for tacos, especially when they're kissed by the smoke of a grill," Food editor Joe Yonan wrote when he brought this recipe to The Post some years ago. But maybe you don't have a grill? The plantains can also be cooked in a grill pan or cast-iron skillet on your stovetop.

If you're new to cooking with plantains, here are some pointers:

Plantains are a type of banana, but they are too starchy to be eaten raw. Fortunately, there are many ways to cook them.
Green plantains are completely unripe, and after being cooked, will have a starchy texture and earthy, savory flavor. They are commonly boiled, simmered in soups, mashed into dumplings or deep fried into chips or tostones.
Yellowish-green plantains are half-ripe. They can be grilled, boiled, mashed or fried. They will taste slightly sweet and have a somewhat starchy texture.
Yellow plantains with black spots are ripe, and completely blackened plantains are fully, or some might say overly, ripe. They're also known as sweet plantains because once cooked, their flavor is very sweet. They can be simmered in sauces, pureed into batters, baked or fried.
The riper the plantain, the faster it will cook.
If you buy green plantains, it will take them about 10 days at room temperature to go from green to black.
When I'm not roasting or grilling them whole, here's how I peel plantains: First, I cut off the ends. Then, I score the skin down the length of the plantain and use my fingers to pull it off in one sheath or in strips.

For this recipe, you'll want to look for plantains that are yellow with a hint of green. They should be mostly firm, but with some give. Green plantains will be too astringent, and even partially black plantains will be too ripe and soft for this type of grilling.

Today's recipe

Photos by Scott Suchman/For The Washington Post

Tacos With Grilled Plantains

Find substitution suggestions and other tips below the recipe.

To save or print this recipe, view it in our Recipe Finder here.

Servings: 4
Total time: 25 mins

Ingredients

2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for coating the grill
2 medium semi-ripe plantains, peeled (about 1 1/4 pounds; see pointers above)
Finely grated zest and juice from 1 lime
1/2 teaspoon fine salt, or more as needed
1 teaspoon ground ancho chile powder
8 (6-inch) corn tortillas
2 cups packed shredded red cabbage
1 cup homemade or store-bought salsa verde
3/4 cup toasted pumpkin seeds (see NOTE)

Steps

1. Prepare a grill for direct heat. If using a gas grill, preheat to medium (350 degrees). If using a charcoal grill, light the charcoal or wood briquettes; when the briquettes are ready, distribute them under the cooking area for direct heat. For a medium-hot fire, you should be able to hold your hand about 6 inches above the coals for about 4 or 5 seconds. Have ready a spray water bottle for taming any flames. Lightly coat the grill rack with oil and place it on the grill.

2. Brush the plantains with the oil and place on the grill. Cook, turning as needed, until lightly charred on several sides, 5 to 10 minutes total. Transfer the plantains to a cutting board and cut into slices or bite-size pieces, then toss in a large bowl with the lime zest and juice, 1/2 teaspoon of the salt and the chili powder. Taste, and season with more salt as needed.

3. Warm the tortillas on the grill for 5 seconds per side (to make them pliable); divide among individual plates. Fill each tortilla with 1/4 cup cabbage, a few pieces of plantain and a few tablespoons of salsa. Evenly distribute the pumpkin seeds. Serve warm.

NOTE: To toast the pumpkin seeds, heat a large, heavy skillet over low-to-medium heat. Add the pumpkin seeds and cook, tossing occasionally, until fragrant and slightly puffed, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to a plate and let cool completely before using.

Adapted from a recipe by Jason Wyrick in "Living the Farm Sanctuary Life," by Gene Bauer (Rodale, 2015). Tested by Joe Yonan.

Nutrition information per serving: Calories: 430; Total Fat: 17 g; Saturated Fat: 3 g; Cholesterol: 0 mg; Sodium: 440 mg; Carbohydrates: 67 g; Dietary Fiber: 9 g; Sugar: 21 g; Protein: 12 g.

Substitution suggestions + other tips and ideas:

I love plantains, but in case you don't >> try this with zucchini or marinated super-firm tofu. These may take less time to char, so keep an eye on them.
No ancho chile powder? >> Use any kind of chile powder or ground chiles, or substitute cumin for a milder flavor.
Out of cabbage? >> Lettuce or fresh cilantro would be good, too.