Did a friend forward this to you? Sign up here. The beauty of a well-made tortilla In North America, the corn tortilla doesn't always get the recognition it deserves. But south of the border, flat disks of masa, tender and malleable, puffed and pliable once cooked, are more than a staple food. The tortilla sits at the center of centuries of history and culture. It gave rise to the once-thriving kingdoms of the Mayans and Aztecs. Though corn masa is made from just three ingredients — corn, water and calcium hydroxide — it forms a complete protein alongside beans, as in these Chili Lime Black Bean Tacos. Every corn tortilla starts out the same way: Dried dent or field corn is nixtamalized, or soaked in water and calcium hydroxide, a powdery substance also known as slaked lime. Next, the kernels are ground and mashed into masa. This dough is flattened, by hand or machine, into tortillas and then cooked on a hot comal or griddle. The Aztecs discovered nixtamalization when they used water mixed with ashes — a naturally occurring form of calcium hydroxide — to soften their corn. Nixtamalization is practical and nutritionally beneficial: It makes the corn easier to grind and mash, and as the chef Gabriela Cámara explains in "My Mexico City Kitchen," it releases amino acids that turn the corn into a more complete protein, allowing humans to more easily digest its nutrients. "Masa is not strictly Mexican, Central American, Native American, South American, nor is it whatever it means to be American — it is culturally plural. It is the connective tissue between so many cultures around the world," writes Jorge Gaviria in "Masa: Techniques, Recipes, and Reflections on a Timeless Staple." The Mexican chefs Enrique Olvera and Luis Arellano spent years perfecting tender, colorful tortillas, using heritage corn varieties from across Mexico. They came to view the task as essential in a quest to develop the perfect taco. But masa can do so much more than make a tortilla, as Olvera writes in "Mexico From the Inside Out," "What's fascinating is the wealth of Mexico's poverty; the tortilla has leafed into numerous creative variations, including enchiladas, sopes, totopos, peneques, tostadas, flautas, pellizcadas, chalupas and an imaginative 'et cetera.'" A tortillera, or a person who specializes in making tortillas, may test a tortilla as soon as it's done cooking by balling it up in their hand. A fresh, well-made tortilla will not only not crumble or crack, it will unfold itself back into a flat, pliable disk. Magic! I've never made tortillas from dried corn before, but I've been wanting to ever since I got my hands on Gaviria's "Masa." I have made tortillas from masa harina, though, and if you haven't, I highly recommend it! Or, simply seek out well-made tortillas. I like the ones from El Milagro. They'd be great as the base of these tacos with quick pickled onions and saucy, chile-spiked beans. | Today's recipe | Photos by Justin Tsucalas for the Washington Post; food styling by Nichole Bryant for the Washington Post | Chili Lime Black Bean TacosFind substitution suggestions and other tips below the recipe. Storage: Refrigerate the black bean filling and pickled onions separately for up to 2 days; reheat the black beans on the stovetop. To save or print this recipe, view it in our Recipe Finder here. Servings: 2 (makes 6 tacos) Total time: 20 mins Ingredients - 2 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced crosswise (white and green parts)
- 1 small red onion (4 ounces), thinly sliced and divided
- 1/4 cup fresh lime juice (from 2 to 3 limes)
- 1/4 teaspoon fine salt, plus more as needed
- 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- One (15.5-ounce) can no-salt-added black beans, with the liquid
- 1 teaspoon chili powder
- 1 teaspoon ground cumin
- 1 teaspoon Spanish smoked paprika (pimentón; sweet or hot)
- 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
- Six (6-inch) corn tortillas
- 1 cup chopped romaine lettuce (from 1 heart of romaine)
- Hot sauce, such as Cholula (optional)
Steps1. Make the two-onion quick pickle: In a medium bowl, combine the scallions and half of the onion. Cover the onions and scallions with hot tap water and squeeze them a few times with your hands. Let stand for about 2 minutes to extract their raw flavor, then drain. (This will lessen your onion breath.) 2. In a small jar or liquid measuring cup, combine the lime juice, the rinsed onions and scallions and a pinch of salt. Let stand while you make the remainder of the recipe, or for at least 10 minutes. 3. In a large skillet over medium heat, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the remaining onion and cook without stirring until lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Add the black beans with their liquid, chili powder, cumin, Spanish smoked paprika, Dijon mustard and 1/4 teaspoon of salt and stir to combine. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid reduces to a thick, fragrant sauce, 5 to 7 minutes. 4. We like to add a bit of flavor and lovely char marks while warming our tortillas (not required, but highly recommended). Place a tortilla right on the grate above the flame of a gas burner, then cook on medium heat for a few seconds per side, flipping with tongs, until lightly blackened on the edges. Repeat with the remaining tortillas. (If you don't have a gas range, arrange the tortillas in a single layer on a baking sheet and broil for about 1 minute per side.) 5. To assemble the tacos, place some chopped romaine at the center of each tortilla, then add a large spoonful of the black bean mixture. Top with the pickled onion and hot sauce, if using. If desired, you can pour a small splash of the lime juice from the onion pickle onto each taco (but be conservative, or you'll have a watery taco). From Sonja Overhiser and Alex Overhiser of ACoupleCooks.com. Tested by Sonja Overhiser and Alex Overhiser. Nutrition information per serving: Calories: 500; Total Fat: 18 g; Saturated Fat: 3 g; Cholesterol: 0 mg; Sodium: 430 mg; Carbohydrates: 71 g; Dietary Fiber: 16 g; Sugar: 1 g; Protein: 17 g.
Substitution suggestions + other tips and ideas: - If you can't have onions >> use radishes or jicama instead.
- No black beans? >> Pinto or kidney beans would also be good here.
- Instead of lettuce >> consider using cabbage, for extra crunch.
📣 Having trouble in the kitchen? Looking for cooking advice? Have a question about a specific recipe? Join me and my colleague Aaron Hutcherson on today's live chat at 12 p.m. ET. | Dessert | 🎧 "Descending to Nowhere" by Rodrigo y Gabriela. 📺 A Brief History of Nuevo Cine Mexicano. 📖 "The best tacos, cantinas, pulque and classic restaurants in Mexico City" by Daniel Hernandez in the Los Angeles Times. 📰 "A local's guide to Mexico City" by Issa Plancarte in The Post. 👀 Burnt milk ice cream. 🗣 If you liked this newsletter, please forward it to a friend! |
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